Join our Mail List
Jewelry Design & Manufacture | Gemological TermsBelow we have listed terms that might prove to be useful to you. These terms are typical in the design and manufacture of custom designed, handcrafted gold, platinum and silver jewelry including diamond engagement rings, wedding bands, commitment rings, unique earrings and pendants, and stunning bracelets. If you have any questions about custom designed handcrafted jewelry, or would like to request a quote, please call Gary Dawson Designs at 855-329-7665 or fill out our online form. A | B | C | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | ZAcid EtchingEtch (derived from the German word "to corrode or eat") involves immersing the metal in an acid solution while protecting certain parts with a substance called a resist (asphaltum, rosin, wax, etc.) in order to create a pattern on the metal's surface.
AlloyA homogeneous mixture or solid solution of two or more metals, the atoms of one replacing or occupying interstitial positions between the atoms of the other: Brass is an alloy of zinc and copper. To combine (metals) to form an alloy.
AmuletAn object or a talisman to protect against danger and the unknown.
Basse-tailleTranslucent enameling that is applied over an engraved metal surface.
BelcherA ring or setting comprised of prongs that are part of the main object, not an applied component.
Bespoke(especially of clothing or jewelry) made to the customer’s specifications.
BezelA way of setting gems that features a metal rim that encircles the sides of a gemstone and extends slightly above it. The rim, or collar, can stretch around the gem's entire circumference or around only a portion of it. A bezel setting holds a gemstone securely, and the low, protective profile it creates makes a bezel setting a good choice for people with active lifestyles. In some cases a bezel setting can be maintenance free and it is usually my first choice.
Brushed FinishA finish variously produced by lightly scratching the surface.
Burnished FinishA directional bright finish done by hand with a burnishing tool or "burnisher."
CalibréGemstones that are cut to fit a specific setting size (calibrated), or gems that are set into rows or strands of identical size.
CameoA method of stone carving which creates a raised positive relief image, contrasted with intaglio, which has a negative image.
CastingMaking of objects using molds: the making of a solid object by pouring molten metal, glass, or plastic into a mold and allowing it to cool. One of the two main ways to create jewelry.
CathedralRefers to a ring or setting that arches up to or above a gemstone when seen from the side.
ChamplevéEnameling technique, meaning "raised field," are stamped depressions in metal that are then filled with enamel.
Channel SettingA gem mounting technique where a row of similarly sized gems are set in a row between smooth edges of metal.
Chip CarvingAlso called Kerbschnitt, chip carving involves using a metal-cutting chisel to remove tiny chips from the metal's surface to create a pattern or relief.
CliquetAlso known as a jabot pin, or sûreté. A fastening device or 'catch' that uses a pin and snap closure.
CloisonnéCloisonné is a multi-step process where filigree is inlaid with enamel to produce a wide variety of color in jewelry.
CrucibleA cup-shaped bowl made of graphite and clay or ceramic in which metals are melted to a liquid state.
ElectroplatingDepositing one type of metal onto the surface of another type by using the process of electrolysis or an electro-chemical reaction. Plated coatings are measured in microns.
en EésilleA chocker made with a gold or platinum trellis-work of gemstones.
en EsclavageBracelet or necklace that contains metal similar plaques that are connected with rows of swagged chain (enslaved).
EngravingA decorative style created by using sharp tools, (gravers) to cut a metal surface in a pattern.
FabricationMaking of objects by forming and assembling the material: One of the two main ways to create jewelry.
FauxImitation of the real thing, such as paste gemstones or costume jewelry. If you like it, it is faux, if not, it’s a fake. (credit to Joe Pine)
FiligreeDelicate jewelry or metalwork with wire soldered to a metal background in patterns. Also describes pattern-work made with twisted threads of gold and/or silver. Derived from the Latin words filum thread, and granum, grain.
Flush SetMounting a gemstone by smoothly imbedding it into the surface of a metal.
GranulationSimilar to the shot ball technique, tiny granules or "grains" are fusion-welded to the metal's surface to create a pattern or design. A technique used for centuries in India and Nepal.
Graver SetTo mount a gemstone directly into the surface of the metal using a sharp tool to form the metal around the gem to hold it in place. Like Pavé except gems can be set singularly or more loosely spaced.
Green GoldAn alloy of gold that contains more silver than copper giving the metal a greenish or brassy color.
GuillochéMachine-turning technique for engraving a repetitive decorative pattern onto a metal surface - a popular watchmaking embellishment.
HabilléMeaning "dressed up," this refers to the image in a cameo, of a women wearing some form of gem-set jewelry.
Hammered FinishUsing a cross or ball peen hammer to leave indented hammer marks on the metal's surface.
IntaglioIntaglio is the opposite of cameo with an incised negative image. Intaglio is used to make engraved seals, where it leaves a raised design on the material being stamped.
Karatmeasure of gold content: a unit of proportion of gold in an alloy equal to 1/24 part of pure gold. Thus 24 K is pure gold, 18K is 75% gold content 14K is 58.3 % gold content.
LaminationThe bonding of two different metals to create a pattern when cross-sectioned. Damask Steel and Japanese "Mokumé Gane" or "Wood Grain" are two examples of metal lamination to create a pattern.
LavalierA necklace with two pendants of unequal length (aka negligee pendant).
LimogesFrench technique for enameling and firing to create a pictorial image, typically a portrait, to be used as a brooch.
Lost wax castingCreating an original artwork from wax, the wax prototype is “invested” in a container called a “flask”. The flask is then heated in a kiln to eliminate the wax. Molten metal is injected into the hollow space made by the eliminated wax model creating an exact duplicate of the wax object in metal.
Metal InlayImbedding or inserting of sheet metal or wire into an indentation or groove in the surface of a finished piece of metal.
Mirror FinishA highly reflective surface with no visible abrasion pattern. Created with rouge, muslin, or a flannel buffing wheel.
NégligéeA necklace pendant with two drops that are unevenly suspended.
PampilleA graduated row of articulating set gemstones that taper to a point.
ParurePronounced (pah-rur), a matching earrings and brooch or pendant to make up a jewelry set, or suite of mating jewelry. Term came into popular usage in 17th century France and later in other European countries.
PatinaPatina is a chemical film formed on the surface of metal through wear, corrosion, or oxidization due to exposure to the elements. A patina is often deliberately added by metalworkers.
PavéSmaller gemstones that are set very close together, usually in a graver setting style, to create a field of color.
PiquéGold or silver inlayed design pattern (pricked). Also, a carbon diamond inclusion.
Plique à JourTranslucent enameling technique that has the look of stained glass.
Prong SettingA gem mounting technique that uses three or more thin tines or claws to hold the gem in place. Prong settings can be reasonably secure but will always eventually need maintenance.
RepousséFrench for "to push back," Repoussé is a technique for creating a relief design by pressing or hammering the inside or backside of a metal surface.
Reticulation (Samorodok)Giving the surface of the metal a rough or wrinkled texture (network or web) that has a naturally formed appearance. The process (aka Samorodok) was popularized by Russian artists such as Fabergé.
RivièreA necklace of ascending graduated gemstones that flows like a "river."
Rose GoldA gold alloy containing more copper than silver, creating a pinkish or reddish color.
Satin FinishA non-directional or directional finish created with abrasive compounds that produce fine lines across the surface of the metal.
SûretéAlso known as a cliquet or jabot pin. A fastening device or 'catch' that uses a pin-and-snap closure.
ShankThe portion of a ring that encircles a finger. The shank holds the head (setting), which in turn, holds the gemstone.
Shot BallMetal fusion using tiny shot balls fused to the metal's surface to create a pattern or design. A technique used in ancient Etruscan jewelry to add texture to the surface.
ScoringUsing a tool to engrave a groove or furrow into the flat surface of the metal.
SolderA solder is a fusible metal alloy (gold solder: gold mixed with lower melting metals) with a melting point below that of the metals being joined and is melted to join two metallic surfaces.
SolitaireA single gemstone set by itself in mounting.
Tension settingA gem held in place by the pressure of the band's metal, which is designed to "squeeze" the stone.
Tiffany MountingRefers to a solitaire mounting with a four or six prong head to hold the gemstone. Considered to be the “traditional” engagement ring by some. The shank is usually simple and narrow.
White GoldAn alloy of gold containing nickel, palladium, or other white metal alloy components that give the metal a white or whitish color.
Yellow GoldAn alloy of gold with silver and copper. May contain small amounts of other metals to enhance casting or fabricating characteristics.
|
