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Custom Gold & Precious Metal Jewelry Handcrafted in the USA by Gary Dawson Designs
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Glossary

Jewelry Design & Manufacture | Gemological Terms

Below we have listed terms that might prove to be useful to you. These terms are typical in the design and manufacture of custom designed, handcrafted gold, platinum and silver jewelry including diamond engagement rings, wedding bands, commitment rings, unique earrings and pendants, and stunning bracelets.

If you have any questions about custom designed handcrafted jewelry, or would like to request a quote, please call Gary Dawson Designs at 855-329-7665 or fill out our online form.

A | B | C | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z

A

Acid Etching

Etch (derived from the German word "to corrode or eat") involves immersing the metal in an acid solution while protecting certain parts with a substance called a resist (asphaltum, rosin, wax, etc.) in order to create a pattern on the metal's surface.

Alloy

A homogeneous mixture or solid solution of two or more metals, the atoms of one replacing or occupying interstitial positions between the atoms of the other: Brass is an alloy of zinc and copper. To combine (metals) to form an alloy.

Amulet

An object or a talisman to protect against danger and the unknown.
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Basse-taille

Translucent enameling that is applied over an engraved metal surface.

Belcher

A ring or setting comprised of prongs that are part of the main object, not an applied component.

Bespoke

(especially of clothing or jewelry) made to the customer’s specifications.

Bezel

A way of setting gems that features a metal rim that encircles the sides of a gemstone and extends slightly above it. The rim, or collar, can stretch around the gem's entire circumference or around only a portion of it. A bezel setting holds a gemstone securely, and the low, protective profile it creates makes a bezel setting a good choice for people with active lifestyles. In some cases a bezel setting can be maintenance free and it is usually my first choice.

Brushed Finish

A finish variously produced by lightly scratching the surface.

Burnished Finish

A directional bright finish done by hand with a burnishing tool or "burnisher."
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Calibré

Gemstones that are cut to fit a specific setting size (calibrated), or gems that are set into rows or strands of identical size.

Cameo

A method of stone carving which creates a raised positive relief image, contrasted with intaglio, which has a negative image.

Casting

Making of objects using molds: the making of a solid object by pouring molten metal, glass, or plastic into a mold and allowing it to cool. One of the two main ways to create jewelry.

Cathedral

Refers to a ring or setting that arches up to or above a gemstone when seen from the side.

Champlevé

Enameling technique, meaning "raised field," are stamped depressions in metal that are then filled with enamel.

Channel Setting

A gem mounting technique where a row of similarly sized gems are set in a row between smooth edges of metal.

Chip Carving

Also called Kerbschnitt, chip carving involves using a metal-cutting chisel to remove tiny chips from the metal's surface to create a pattern or relief.

Cliquet

Also known as a jabot pin, or sûreté. A fastening device or 'catch' that uses a pin and snap closure.

Cloisonné

Cloisonné is a multi-step process where filigree is inlaid with enamel to produce a wide variety of color in jewelry.

Crucible

A cup-shaped bowl made of graphite and clay or ceramic in which metals are melted to a liquid state.
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Electroplating

Depositing one type of metal onto the surface of another type by using the process of electrolysis or an electro-chemical reaction. Plated coatings are measured in microns.

en Eésille

A chocker made with a gold or platinum trellis-work of gemstones.

en Esclavage

Bracelet or necklace that contains metal similar plaques that are connected with rows of swagged chain (enslaved).

Engraving

A decorative style created by using sharp tools, (gravers) to cut a metal surface in a pattern.
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Fabrication

Making of objects by forming and assembling the material: One of the two main ways to create jewelry.

Faux

Imitation of the real thing, such as paste gemstones or costume jewelry. If you like it, it is faux, if not, it’s a fake. (credit to Joe Pine)

Filigree

Delicate jewelry or metalwork with wire soldered to a metal background in patterns. Also describes pattern-work made with twisted threads of gold and/or silver. Derived from the Latin words filum thread, and granum, grain.

Flush Set

Mounting a gemstone by smoothly imbedding it into the surface of a metal.
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Granulation

Similar to the shot ball technique, tiny granules or "grains" are fusion-welded to the metal's surface to create a pattern or design. A technique used for centuries in India and Nepal.

Graver Set

To mount a gemstone directly into the surface of the metal using a sharp tool to form the metal around the gem to hold it in place. Like Pavé except gems can be set singularly or more loosely spaced.

Green Gold

An alloy of gold that contains more silver than copper giving the metal a greenish or brassy color.

Guilloché

Machine-turning technique for engraving a repetitive decorative pattern onto a metal surface - a popular watchmaking embellishment.
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Habillé

Meaning "dressed up," this refers to the image in a cameo, of a women wearing some form of gem-set jewelry.

Hammered Finish

Using a cross or ball peen hammer to leave indented hammer marks on the metal's surface.
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Intaglio

Intaglio is the opposite of cameo with an incised negative image. Intaglio is used to make engraved seals, where it leaves a raised design on the material being stamped.
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Karat

measure of gold content: a unit of proportion of gold in an alloy equal to 1/24 part of pure gold. Thus 24 K is pure gold, 18K is 75% gold content 14K is 58.3 % gold content.
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Lamination

The bonding of two different metals to create a pattern when cross-sectioned. Damask Steel and Japanese "Mokumé Gane" or "Wood Grain" are two examples of metal lamination to create a pattern.

Lavalier

A necklace with two pendants of unequal length (aka negligee pendant).

Limoges

French technique for enameling and firing to create a pictorial image, typically a portrait, to be used as a brooch.

Lost wax casting

Creating an original artwork from wax, the wax prototype is “invested” in a container called a “flask”. The flask is then heated in a kiln to eliminate the wax. Molten metal is injected into the hollow space made by the eliminated wax model creating an exact duplicate of the wax object in metal.
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Metal Inlay

Imbedding or inserting of sheet metal or wire into an indentation or groove in the surface of a finished piece of metal.

Mirror Finish

A highly reflective surface with no visible abrasion pattern. Created with rouge, muslin, or a flannel buffing wheel.
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Négligée

A necklace pendant with two drops that are unevenly suspended.
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Pampille

A graduated row of articulating set gemstones that taper to a point.

Parure

Pronounced (pah-rur), a matching earrings and brooch or pendant to make up a jewelry set, or suite of mating jewelry. Term came into popular usage in 17th century France and later in other European countries.

Patina

Patina is a chemical film formed on the surface of metal through wear, corrosion, or oxidization due to exposure to the elements. A patina is often deliberately added by metalworkers.

Pavé

Smaller gemstones that are set very close together, usually in a graver setting style, to create a field of color.

Piqué

Gold or silver inlayed design pattern (pricked). Also, a carbon diamond inclusion.

Plique à Jour

Translucent enameling technique that has the look of stained glass.

Prong Setting

A gem mounting technique that uses three or more thin tines or claws to hold the gem in place. Prong settings can be reasonably secure but will always eventually need maintenance.
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Repoussé

French for "to push back," Repoussé is a technique for creating a relief design by pressing or hammering the inside or backside of a metal surface.

Reticulation (Samorodok)

Giving the surface of the metal a rough or wrinkled texture (network or web) that has a naturally formed appearance. The process (aka Samorodok) was popularized by Russian artists such as Fabergé.

Rivière

A necklace of ascending graduated gemstones that flows like a "river."

Rose Gold

A gold alloy containing more copper than silver, creating a pinkish or reddish color.
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Satin Finish

A non-directional or directional finish created with abrasive compounds that produce fine lines across the surface of the metal.

Sûreté

Also known as a cliquet or jabot pin. A fastening device or 'catch' that uses a pin-and-snap closure.

Shank

The portion of a ring that encircles a finger. The shank holds the head (setting), which in turn, holds the gemstone.

Shot Ball

Metal fusion using tiny shot balls fused to the metal's surface to create a pattern or design. A technique used in ancient Etruscan jewelry to add texture to the surface.

Scoring

Using a tool to engrave a groove or furrow into the flat surface of the metal.

Solder

A solder is a fusible metal alloy (gold solder: gold mixed with lower melting metals) with a melting point below that of the metals being joined and is melted to join two metallic surfaces.

Solitaire

A single gemstone set by itself in mounting.
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Tension setting

A gem held in place by the pressure of the band's metal, which is designed to "squeeze" the stone.

Tiffany Mounting

Refers to a solitaire mounting with a four or six prong head to hold the gemstone. Considered to be the “traditional” engagement ring by some. The shank is usually simple and narrow.
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White Gold

An alloy of gold containing nickel, palladium, or other white metal alloy components that give the metal a white or whitish color.
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Yellow Gold

An alloy of gold with silver and copper. May contain small amounts of other metals to enhance casting or fabricating characteristics.
 
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